First stop, the North Yorkshire market town of Settle
After stopping for a spot of lunch at The Cow Shed in the village of Windermere, we drove along Lake Windermere to Bowness. This well known tourist spot was relatively quiet compared to other visits, except for the low flying jets which went back and forth. We were to see and hear them throughout our stay. Some thought they were being used for training Ukrainian pilots.
We then drove over the Kirkstone Pass with its stunning scenery to to reach our dog-friendly hotel, The Ullswater Inn, right on Lake Ullswater in Glenridding.
The back of the hotel opened on to the lakeside with plenty of green space to wear out the dog as well as the pier for the Ullswater Steamer.
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| A plaque to show the launching location of Donald Campbell's record-breaking speedboat Bluebird |
The next day we took the boat to Howtown, where our walk began. It was quite cold and breezy for the 40 minute steamer ride with its sides open to the elements but it was worth it for the scenery.
The walk was described as: fairly easy, 3 miles or 5 km in length, easy going but with some uphill stretches and slightly rocky sections of path. We began our walk using the downloaded route which was very easy to follow, towards Sandwick.
As we walked up the path, the views of the lake below and Hallin Fell above were spectacular. We had the route to ourselves and didn’t come across other walkers until we reached Hallinhag Wood which skirted the lake. Here we came across the first walkers and the woman told us the route was “quite hairy in places”. We continued and wondered how hard it could be. We soon came across “the slightly rocky sections of path” referred to on our route directions. We faced a long stretch of uneven terrain with huge tree roots, jumbled stone and a steep drop to the lake. Others passed us, some of whom enjoy the walk and do it quite regularly, and told us it was just another 100 yards before it got easier. It was definitely more than that before we reached an easier path to navigate and we could, once more, appreciate the view without worrying about where we were putting our feet.
On reaching the Howtown Hotel, we had a well-deserved afternoon tea at the newly opened Tea Shop before catching the steamer back to Glenridding. This time, we realised that there was a saloon and bar below deck. The views were not as good, but it was warmer than the outward journey.
That evening, we exited from the front of the hotel which opens on to the main street and walked up to the Travellers Rest, a popular traditional pub. We met a couple we had seen earlier in the Howtown Tea Shop and there were a few guests from our hotel. Our dog is very distinctive with his large, sticking up ears and is always a talking point. From the outside seating area you can see Glenridding and beyond below and Helvelyn above. The walk hopefully counted against the calories consumed!
The next day we visited Lowther Castle and Gardens near Penrith which was built in early 19th century. The castle was not built as a mode of defence but allows beautiful views of the surrounding countryside from its strategic position. It is surrounded by woodland and gardens, which are in the process of being renovated. The courtyard café is open to the public.
We then visited the town of Penrith with its main street full of cafes and shops, many of them independent. There was a vibrant, holiday atmosphere here with walkers, shoppers and tourists enjoying the sunshine.
There is still a lot more of the area to be explored and hope that we will be as lucky with the weather on our next visit.
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