Annual trip to Northumberland 2023

Our first stop was at South Park Darlington. We entered the Victorian park to borders of brightly coloured Dahlias, past the bowling green with its trellis of roses to the cafe, where we sat out in the scorching sunshine.

Border of Dahlias

We walked around the lake and saw exotic birds in the aviary as we left. An information board gives the history green of the park which was to act as a “green lung” for the residents of Darlington.

Next stop Seaham on the Durham coast where we ate our lunch

Our base was the dog friendly Amble Inn on the outskirts of Amble. The special offer included free dog accommodation breakfast and unlimited treats, evening meal for us on the first night and a pack with maps of local walks.

Even doggy beer!

Amble's working harbour

,A mile off the coast at Amble is Coquet Island wildlife sanctuary where the public are not allowed to visit.  Coquet Island

It is home to 40,000 breeding seabirds and is the only UK breeding site for roseate terns (rosy) and an important breeding site for puffins.

From the pack of local walks, we chose the Alnmouth to Boulmer walk along English Coastal Path.

This took us between the golf courses of Alnmouth and Foxton, with the path actually going through the clubhouse garden. Following the path, we came across off-grid customised caravans and lodges.

 

We arrived at Boulmer village in time for lunch at the Fishing Boat Inn overlooking sea before walking back to Alnmouth along the beach.

Seahouses Harbour

We then drove on to Seahouses and Bamburgh which were heaving with tourists and on to see the wildlife at Budle Bay.

On our return journey we stopped at Saltburn, Staithes, Whitby and Ulrome where we were spending a couple of days.

Saltburn showing pier and cliff railway

The Zetland Hotel (now apartments) where we stayed c1970

Picturesque Staithes, home of Captain James Cook

A steep climb down to Staithes harbour and an even more arduous ascent.  No cars are allowed.

Beach huts at Whitby

A sea fret drove us inland to Driffield

Bridlington Stones Artwork on North Beach

No sea fret today

When accompanied by our dog, we are greeted by loads of people, dog and non-dog owners, who always seem to have a treat in their pockets! If they are local, that’s a bonus for us as we learn more about the area.  

One week after our return, I remembered that I hadn’t paid the toll , which is online only and the £2.20 became £32.20 but it didn’t detract from the enjoyment of our holiday.

For additional pictures, history etc of the places mentioned, click on Northumberland on the labels in the sidebar.

 

Annual trip to Northumberland 2022

After checking the weather forecast, we were tempted to cancel this trip but it would have been a lost opportunity.

On the outward journey, we made a pit stop at Hartlepool, an interesting place where we would like to spend more time to visit the National Museum of the Royal Navy and the headland.  We did take a walk along the England Coast Path, a wide promenade next to the beach which was busy with cyclists and dog walkers.  Our goal was the seaside town of Seaton Carew, but learnt that it was further than we thought.

From the England Coast Path looking towards the headland

We took the coastal route to our base, The Amble Inn at Amble, and the heavens opened as we checked in.  This was the first significant rainfall that we had seen for many months.  Nevertheless we drove up the coast to Alnmouth and, during a lull in the rain, we managed a short stroll on the beach.

The next day dawned bright and dry so, after a comfortable night at the hotel with a large breakfast and even a sausage for the dog, we visited our old haunts:

Boulmer beach

Seahouses - where we ate our packed lunch while looking out to sea where the Farne Islands were clearly visible before buying a couple of items from Farne Gifts, the shop that sells everything from pottery penguins to paintbrushes. 

Bamburgh:  Bamburgh village was busy as usual so we drove up to the Bamburgh Castle Golf Club at the top of the cliff and took the Northumberland Coast Path towards Budle Point, marvelling at the long stretch of golden/white sands.  It is an easy walk giving great views of Bamburgh Castle and Lindisfarne.

The weather stayed fine and we felt we had earned our afternoon tea at Copper Kettle Tea Room in Bamburgh, where we sat in the sunshine on the patio.  I bumped into an ex pupil who remembered me from all those years ago making me believe that I hadn’t aged at all!

The next day, rain threatened so we had an early morning amble in Amble. It has an interesting history displayed on information boards, a working harbour and marina.  We saw a film crew interviewing a man at one of the stalls.  He told us he was just giving advice for young people who were thinking of starting up their own business but then, to be polite, we had to listen to his political views which were not so different from our own.

The rain then started in earnest and, on our homeward journey, persisted the whole day but we were glad we kept to our plans and had an enjoyable trip.

Annual Visit to Northumberland 2021

 Each year we like to visit old haunts and find new places.  This year we had our new puppy with us so had to think ahead. 

First stop was at South Park, Darlington.

Pristine bowling green

Riverside walk

Huge duck pond with three islands 

We arrived at the dog friendly Schooner Inn at Amble, an old pub perfectly located between sea and park. Amble is a former mining town which once had railway links to the Northumberland coalfields making the town a centre for the sea transport and export of coal. The former station is now a private dwelling and the industrial workings are now Paddlers Park. It still has a working harbour and a marina.  Over the decades, we have seen it grow into a popular tourist resort.  

The pub was an old building and I found that Thomas Weir Innkeeper 1881 was mentioned here Amble Inns, Pubs and Drinking Establishments of the 19th Century. (fusilier.co.uk)

A new spot we found was Low Hauxley beach which is reached through the sand dunes.  Dolphins could be spotted just off the coast as could the bird reserve Coquet Island.

On to Alnmouth where we found the lovely, dog friendly Village Tearooms. Walking across the beach we saw a camera crew filming Kate Humble who was standing by a sand drawing but didn’t get too close in case the puppy spoiled the installation!

On to Seahouses for lunch.  We ate our sandwiches by the harbour where benches are arranged like a theatre.

The weather was glorious and the village of Bamborough with its beautiful beach was heaving with tourists so we gave it a miss this time.  We drove to Budle Bay but the tide was in so no birds to spot.  We did see many formations of geese coming back from Russia.  They are very vocal.

On the way back to the hotel, we found a new beach by taking a narrow road just before the bridge at Warkworth.

On our return journey we stopped at Newbiggin by the Sea, well known for its sculpture “Couple" by Sean Henry. This large (12.25 x 21 x 6 metre) sculpture was installed on 17th August 2007 with a smaller sculpture, "Land Couple", looking out at the larger couple out at sea installed on land in November 2007.

The large sculpture and students doing fieldwork

 

 

 

 

The Land Couple

There is a lot of history here. It was Northumberland's favourite seaside town in the Victorian era. In 1869, there were 142 cobles (fishing boats) in Newbiggin-by-the-Sea. Newbiggin Colliery was opened in 1908, closing in 1967, but at its peak in 1940, 1,400 men were employed there.

Newbiggin by the Sea Mechanics Institute, Northumberland founded Aug 1891. On the premises were reading, smoking, games and billiard rooms. It also housed a public library established by a Miss Fraser with 2,000 books.

On our way home we stopped at Barnes Park, Sunderland for a picnic lunch.

We always enjoy our visits to Northumberland and have experienced flood, snow and gales.  We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves again this year; the wonderful weather and a well behaved puppy being the icing on the cake.