First
stop, the North Yorkshire market town of Settle
After
stopping for a spot of lunch at The Cow Shed in the village of
Windermere, we drove along Lake Windermere to Bowness. This well
known tourist spot was relatively quiet compared to other visits,
except for the low flying jets which went back and forth. We were to
see and hear them throughout our stay. Some thought they were being
used for training Ukrainian pilots.
We
then drove over the Kirkstone Pass with its stunning scenery to to
reach our dog-friendly hotel, The Ullswater Inn, right on Lake
Ullswater in Glenridding.
The
back of the hotel opened on to the lakeside with plenty of green
space to wear out the dog as well as the pier for the Ullswater
Steamer.
 |
A plaque to show the launching location of Donald Campbell's record-breaking speedboat Bluebird |
The
next day we took the boat to Howtown, where our walk began. It was
quite cold and breezy for the 40 minute steamer ride with its sides
open to the elements but it was worth it for the scenery.
The walk
was described as: fairly easy,
3 miles or 5 km in length, easy
going but with some uphill stretches and slightly rocky sections of
path. We began our walk using the downloaded route which was
very easy to follow, towards Sandwick.


As we walked up the path, the
views of the lake below and Hallin Fell above were spectacular. We
had the route to ourselves and didn’t come across other walkers
until we reached Hallinhag Wood which skirted the lake. Here we came
across the first walkers and the woman told us the route was “quite
hairy in places”. We continued and wondered how hard it could be.
We soon came across “the slightly rocky sections of path”
referred to on our route directions. We faced a long stretch of
uneven terrain with huge tree roots, jumbled stone and a steep drop
to the lake. Others passed us, some of whom enjoy the walk and do it
quite regularly, and told us it was just another 100 yards before it
got easier. It was definitely more than that before we reached an easier path to navigate and we could, once more, appreciate
the view without worrying about where we were putting our feet.
On
reaching the Howtown Hotel, we had a well-deserved afternoon tea at
the newly opened Tea Shop before catching the steamer back to
Glenridding. This time, we realised that there was a saloon and bar
below deck. The views were not as good, but it was warmer than the
outward journey.
That
evening, we exited from the front of the hotel which opens on to the
main street and walked up to the Travellers Rest, a popular
traditional pub. We met a couple we had seen earlier in the Howtown
Tea Shop and there were a few guests from our hotel. Our dog is very distinctive
with his large, sticking up ears and is always a talking point. From
the outside seating area you can see Glenridding and beyond below and
Helvelyn above. The walk hopefully counted against the calories
consumed!
The
next day we visited Lowther Castle and Gardens near Penrith which was
built in early 19th century. The castle was not built as a
mode of defence but allows beautiful views of the surrounding
countryside from its strategic position. It is surrounded by
woodland and gardens, which are in the process of being renovated.
The courtyard café is open to the public.
We
then visited the town of Penrith with its main street full of cafes
and shops, many of them independent. There was a vibrant, holiday
atmosphere here with walkers, shoppers and tourists enjoying the
sunshine.
There
is still a lot more of the area to be explored and hope that we will
be as lucky with the weather on our next visit.